We took four days to sail from Guanaja to Livingston, Guatemala. We had glorious, fast sails to Roatan the first day, and to Utila the second day. Each day offered 20 knot winds from the ESE, and La Peregrina seemed to enjoy the romp downwind under genoa alone. Each of these islands is unique and inviting. We would love to come back and spend more time exploring them. It was an overnight sail from Utila to Livingston in generally light air, though we had a thunderstorm during my midnight to 4 a.m. watch with 44 knot winds and a deluge of rain. Maribeth slept through it, oblivious to the whole thing. Clearly, she's become accustomed to travel under sail.
Guatemala promises much to see and do. The motor up the Rio Dulce from Livingston to Frontera is spectacular. After months of open salt water, we suddenly found ourselves on a narrow ribbon of green fresh water squeezed between 300-foot walls of limestone and jungle. There are hundreds of thatch-roofed houses along the river, and a handful of restaurants and tiendas. There are no roads, so all travel is by boat. Everyone seems to have a cayuco, a traditional boat that sits low in the water and is paddled like a canoe. There are also water taxis and ferries with outboard motors that carry larger parties up and down the river. On El Golfete, a natural lake along the way, fishermen use traditional techniques as pelicans float nearby, hoping for a free lunch. We did the trip in a few hours, but could easily spend several days getting to know it better.
There is a tall bridge over the river at the town of Frontera, which, confusingly, is also referred to as "Rio Dulce." Here is where hundreds of sailboats that have traveled the Caribbean Sea since the fall are now waiting out hurricane season. We are much better protected from storms here than we ever were in New Orleans (we weathered 2 hurricanes in our 6 years there.) The town is interesting and busy. There are Mayans here! I guess I assumed the conquistadors had wiped them all out. But they are still very much alive and well, very distinctive in their appearance and culture, even if they are no longer in charge. There are also a few Garifunas, and many Creole, which are a mix of Spanish, African, and Amerindian. And a bunch of salty, weathered sailors.
We haven't really seen much yet. We had La Peregrina hauled out of the water for the summer. We'll repair the damage to the keel that resulted from hitting the reef at Crooked Island on March 30, and she'll be given a fresh coat of bottom paint. But first, we'll head back to Estados Unidos, the good old U.S. of A., the land of abundance, home sweet home. As I write this, we sit in the airport bar at the international airport in Belize City, waiting to board our flight to Houston. It's been quite the adventure getting here from Rio Dulce, involving taxis, a "ferry," a bus, and some interesting strangers. We should be in Middle Tennessee sometime this weekend.
Happy July 4 to everyone. We are excited to see you all!
Joe
