We finally got water today. The reserve tank ran out a couple days ago and we've been carefully rationing our last six gallon "emergency" jug. I've never been so happy to pay $0.40 per gallon for water. Showers at last!
We've been anchored the last three days near Staniel Cay, in the central Exumas. The 100 or so residents here scrape a living together selling diesel fuel, very meager groceries, and very expensive alcohol (I refuse to pay $35 for a 12-pack) to passing sailors. And water, when they have it. Until this morning, they haven't had it. The pump, which supplies the whole community, has been broken since we arrived on Sunday.
Except for the worsening stench that has been following me around lately, we've been enjoying our stay here. A nearby island is populated only by feral pigs and chickens. The pigs swim out to approaching dinghies looking for handouts. Meeting for sundowners on the beach involves mingling with pigs. I blame them for the smell.
Thunderball Grotto is also nearby, where they filmed a scene for the James Bond movie about 50 years ago. (That long ago? Really?) By all accounts, it's a great snorkel, so we're heading there this afternoon.
We arrived in the Exumas on Valentine's Day after a rowdy sail in 25 kt ENE winds. We celebrated our anchorage at Allan's Cays with steak and veggies on the grill. We spent four days in Exumas Land and Sea Park, first off Warderick Wells, and then at Cambridge Cay. It is a gorgeous place. The water is every conceivable shade of blue and clearer than any swimming pool. The islands are covered with cabbage palms (aka palmettos.) Trails lead to untouched beaches and high scenic ridges. Birds and lizards abound; no snakes, and very few insects.
The wind has been unusually strong this winter. The Bahamians say they've never seen it like this. We've spent many days pinned down, and many nights on anchor watch. So far, we've had no trouble. (Ground tackle was the best investment we made, by far.) Our wind generator produces more electricity than we can possibly use in these heavy blows. So I've taken to keeping the instruments turned on all night. I call it "watching the arc." A quick glance at the chart plotter confirms we're not dragging.
The Exumas are a fabulous cruising ground. The water is amazing. There's a gazillion anchorages. The scenery and wildlife is beautiful. The winds have moderated in recent days, and the sailing is excellent. We have resolved to get to know the area, so we're committing a month to it. We'll dawdle on the trip down south to Georgetown. When the wind blows from the south, we'll sail back north to see things we missed. We might even do some boat maintenance if we get motivated, which seems doubtful at the moment. Molly's flying into Georgetown in mid-March for 10 days. We can't wait to show her some Exuma highlights.
In late March and into April, we'll head towards Mayaguana or Providenciales or Matthew Town.
We hope all is well back home. We're looking forward to your visit.
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| La Peregrina at Allan's Cays, Exumas |
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