We spent two and a half weeks island-hopping south through the Exumas. No longer focused on a far-off destination, our pace slowed significantly. We slept late, lounged with coffee in the cockpit, and each day eventually went somewhere or did something. Some days it was walking the trails on nearby islands. We saw iguanas on Allan's Cays, and climbed Perry Peak, the highest point in the Exumas at 123 feet. Some days it was a boat chore. We scraped barnacles off the bottom one day, and cleaned stainless steel another. Some days we sailed to the next island.
The Exumas are a chain of many islands running more than 100 miles from NNW to SSE in the central Bahamas. To the east of these islands is Exuma Sound, many thousands of feet deep and completely open to the prevailing winds. Deep blue and windy. To the west is the Bahama Bank, rarely more than 20 feet deep, sometimes less than 5 feet deep, and protected from waves if not wind. Every shade of blue, green, turquoise and white. There are many cuts allowing passage between the Bank and the Sound, so the sailing route can vary day-to-day, depending on the latest weather forecast.
Mostly, we sailed down the west (Bank) side of the Exumas. Most islands are uninhabited. They offer gorgeous anchorages, with empty beaches, palm trees, reefs, and caves. A few, like Staniel Cay, Black Point, and Little Farmer's Cay, have tiny settlements. Little Farmer's, we were told, had 39 people "including the children." You can buy Kalik for $5 a bottle in any of them.
Typically, we anchored with 5 or 6 other sailboats. Many became familiar. There was Last Tango (Texas) and Pepper (Montana) and La Luna (Holland) who had been with us at Gun Cay more than a month ago, and who we had cocktails with tonight. There was Lala and Oddysey (both from Ontario) who we grilled dinner with on the beach.
The one discipline that unites all Exumas sailors is 5:00 cocktail hour. The default, if no specific arrangements have been made, is to meet on the beach. Everyone brings a beer or a glass of wine or a rum drink. We stand in the sand, or ankle deep in the water, discussing our plans and seeking advice. At 6:15 or so, we marvel at the sunset. Then everyone climbs back in their dinghies and returns to their boats.
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| Cocktail Hour at Big Major's Spot, Exumas |
For the past week, we've been in greater Georgetown. With a population approaching 1000, Georgetown is by far the largest community in the Exumas. The town is fronted by Elizabeth Harbor, where a few hundred sailboats are anchored. A dinghy ride under the 8 ft high, 10 ft wide bridge into Lake Victoria brings you to the Exuma Market dinghy dock. Here, you can get all the free water you can carry. And it's a very short walk to a grocery store, hardware store, gas station, liquor store, hamburger joint, internet cafe, and hair salon. What more could you possibly want?
Georgetown is a pleasant town, full of pleasant people. Businesses are creative: The woman who cut my hair (finally!) also sold us some grouper her husband had caught. And the Internet cafe I used to upload a video also sold snacks and offered "crystal hair treatments with Indian Henna," whatever that is.
We thoroughly enjoyed a Friday evening at Redboone, a roadside beer and hamburger stand where a local band played standards under the stars. Locals and sailors talked and sipped and tapped feet and danced together. The Bahamians were black, happy, loving, well-dressed, welcoming. We sailors were unshaven, sunburnt, sloppily-dressed (except for Maribeth, who was absolutely stunning that evening,) tight with our money, and thrilled to be there. Fun, it seemed to me, was had by all.
Don't worry
About a thing
'Cause every little thing's
Gonna be alright
Molly arrives on Sunday! We can't wait to see her. We plan to sail back north, hoping to show her parts of the Exumas we've enjoyed the most and, maybe, discover some new favorites.
We hope everyone is doing well back home. Come see us!
Good night.
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