June 18, 2016: Guanaja, Bay Islands of Honduras

We raised anchor at daybreak on June 8, motored out of Governors Harbor, and raised sails as we headed towards the channel leading out of Grand Cayman's North Sound.  Our intention was to sail the 460 miles or so to Livingston, Guatemala.  But we had several potential intermediate stops if necessary. 

It was an excellent passage.  The wind was SE at 15 to 20.   We were heading WSW, so it was a fast, relatively comfortable reach.  We did 4 hour watches, and the nights passed easily.  On the second day, we crossed paths with several large freighters on routes between the Yucatan Channel and the Panama Canal.  Late in the day we passed the Swan Islands (Isla de Santillas.)  We never came close enough to see land, but a big lumbering Honduran military plane (maybe a DC3?) flew out from the island and circled us.  We waved.

Each morning we listen to Chris Parker's weather broadcast on the single sideband radio.  On the third morning, he spoke of winds building to 30 knots or more.  We were only 45 miles or so from Guanaja, the eastern most of the Bay Islands of Honduras.  So we determined to make the stop and rest for a couple days until the weather settled down.

And so we found Paradise.   Guanaja offers all the best of Caribbean landfalls.  It is a gorgeous mountainous island covered in pines and palms, and surrounded by clear blue water.  It has cheap good beer, free protected anchorages, friendly people, excellent food, abundant easily accessible great-tasting water, outstanding snorkeling (the healthiest, most diverse coral reefs we've found,) and mountain hikes with clear cool waterfalls.  

There are 8 other sailboats in our anchorage tonight:  three from France, two from Canada, one from England, and two from the U.S.  There are a couple of nearby restaurants where we gather, mingle with the locals, and try to tell stories in our respective languages.  It sounds like the Tower of Babel, but somehow we understand each other.

We took a three day circumnavigation around the island, staying for two nights in a beautiful quiet anchorage on the relatively unpopulated north side of the island. We celebrated our 32nd wedding anniversary there with margaritas in the cockpit.  No other sailors, no cell phone service, no internet, no radio traffic, but one really impressive sunset.  Excellent.

We kinda just wanna stay here.  If tribe and family were here, we would.  But we're now 8 days into our two day rest stop, hurricane season threatens, and we feel pressure to get to Rio Dulce.  Early tomorrow morning we will head west.  Our plan is to leave the boat in Guatemala, and return to the states for a couple months.  If things go according to plan, we'll be in Nashville on or about July 4.  Can't wait to see everyone!

June 7, 2016: Governor's Harbor, Grand Cayman

Jade flew into Montego Bay on May 16th, and three days later we were on our way to Jamaica's Blue Mountains.  Our goal was to climb Blue Mountain Peak.  At 7,402 feet, it is higher than any point east of the Mississippi in the U.S., and the highest point in Jamaica.

It is only about 80 miles from Oracabessa to Mavis Bank, the highest settlement on the mountain.  But it took all day to get there.  The mountain roads are incredible:  narrow, curvy, full of deep holes, and amazingly steep.  They drive on the left in Jamaica, and the steering wheel of our rental car was on the right, so I was constantly fighting my instincts and habits.  When trying to signal a turn, I turned on the windshield wipers instead. The road is wide enough for only one vehicle, but we regularly drove into the bushes when confronting cars (or trucks!) going the opposite direction at ridiculous speeds.  The road is often gravel or dirt, and a couple creeks must be forded.  There are a few terrifying bridges, 10 feet wide, with no railing, hanging 50 feet or more above a mountain gorge.  At one point, the road was so steep that the car would not go further until Maribeth and Jade got out and walked.  (I know, I know, it should have been my fat butt walking!)  Even after all that, we still could not drive to our planned destination.  A phone call, some haggling over price, and soon we were in a 4 wheel drive van, jostling and bouncing the last few miles to Jah B's Rastafarian hostel.  

Jah B's is an amazing place with a sublime view.  In addition to running the hostel for visitors to the Blue  Mountains, Jah B and his family grow organic vegetables and, most importantly, coffee plants.   (Blue Mountain coffee is among the best in the world.)

The crew of La Peregrina with Jah B, the Rastafarian hosteler and Blue Mountain coffee grower

We climbed out of our bunks at 1:30 a.m. and were soon hiking toward the summit.  Thick clouds develop over these mountains during most days, so our plan was to reach the peak for a sunrise panorama. The hike was extraordinary:  a cloudless night, a bright full moon, the lights of Kingston below.  But cold fog developed on the summit just as we arrived, and we were denied our view.  Still, it was a memorable adventure. 

We spent the remainder of Jade's visit exploring the north coast of Jamaica.  We sailed west from Oracabessa back to St. Ann's Bay, a vibrant community with a fascinating market, and then on to Falmouth Harbor and finally Montego Bay, which is called "Mobay" by the locals.  

We bid Jade a sad farewell on May 25th, but happily welcomed my sister Julie.  We stayed a few days anchored at the Montego Bay Yacht Club, where we enjoyed the showers, pool, bar, wifi, and restaurant.  I got my first haircut in 3 months, and we stocked up at an excellent grocery store.  

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On Saturday, the 28th, we set sail for the Cayman Islands.  Julie was apprehensive, but proved to be excellent crew.  It was a two-day passage in relatively light winds dead astern, and we motored more than I preferred.

Grand Cayman is a pleasant place.  We tied up to a free mooring just off Georgetown for four nights where we found great snorkeling off the back of the boat.  An approaching tropical wave persuaded us to make the four hour trip around to North Sound and into well-protected Governor's Harbor, where we remain anchored today.  For eight days now, we have been enjoying the luxuries of this affluent island.  There is an excellent and inexpensive bus service that makes seeing the island easy.  We found a chandlery where I obtained proper parts to replace some of my temporary fixes.  We hiked the Mastic Trail and visited the Botanical Garden.  Maribeth made some outstanding meals with fresh tuna purchased from a local fisherman.  

The low pressure system has now moved north and become tropical storm Colin.  The winds are moderating here, and we are preparing to raise anchor and begin our passage to Guatemala.  It is about 450 miles, the longest crossing we have ever done without additional crew.   But the boat is ready, the forecast is good, we get daily updates via SSB, and we can stop in the Swan Islands or the Bay Islands of Honduras if necessary.  It might just be a blast!

We'll be out of touch for a few days. Best to all of you, and Happy Birthday to Tom Sharp.  We look forward to seeing you all soon.