We raised anchor at daybreak on June 8, motored out of Governors Harbor, and raised sails as we headed towards the channel leading out of Grand Cayman's North Sound. Our intention was to sail the 460 miles or so to Livingston, Guatemala. But we had several potential intermediate stops if necessary.
It was an excellent passage. The wind was SE at 15 to 20. We were heading WSW, so it was a fast, relatively comfortable reach. We did 4 hour watches, and the nights passed easily. On the second day, we crossed paths with several large freighters on routes between the Yucatan Channel and the Panama Canal. Late in the day we passed the Swan Islands (Isla de Santillas.) We never came close enough to see land, but a big lumbering Honduran military plane (maybe a DC3?) flew out from the island and circled us. We waved.
Each morning we listen to Chris Parker's weather broadcast on the single sideband radio. On the third morning, he spoke of winds building to 30 knots or more. We were only 45 miles or so from Guanaja, the eastern most of the Bay Islands of Honduras. So we determined to make the stop and rest for a couple days until the weather settled down.
And so we found Paradise. Guanaja offers all the best of Caribbean landfalls. It is a gorgeous mountainous island covered in pines and palms, and surrounded by clear blue water. It has cheap good beer, free protected anchorages, friendly people, excellent food, abundant easily accessible great-tasting water, outstanding snorkeling (the healthiest, most diverse coral reefs we've found,) and mountain hikes with clear cool waterfalls.
There are 8 other sailboats in our anchorage tonight: three from France, two from Canada, one from England, and two from the U.S. There are a couple of nearby restaurants where we gather, mingle with the locals, and try to tell stories in our respective languages. It sounds like the Tower of Babel, but somehow we understand each other.
We took a three day circumnavigation around the island, staying for two nights in a beautiful quiet anchorage on the relatively unpopulated north side of the island. We celebrated our 32nd wedding anniversary there with margaritas in the cockpit. No other sailors, no cell phone service, no internet, no radio traffic, but one really impressive sunset. Excellent.
We kinda just wanna stay here. If tribe and family were here, we would. But we're now 8 days into our two day rest stop, hurricane season threatens, and we feel pressure to get to Rio Dulce. Early tomorrow morning we will head west. Our plan is to leave the boat in Guatemala, and return to the states for a couple months. If things go according to plan, we'll be in Nashville on or about July 4. Can't wait to see everyone!
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